Who said winter was all about cocooning? Imagine yourself bundled up in a down jacket, guiding a sled pulled by spirited dogs through the snowy forests of Quebec, then dropping your line into a hole in the ice, on the lookout for fish, before hurtling down snowy slopes on skis or snowboard and finally exploring the bustling streets of Toronto and Montreal, all in one season. This is the story of my six-month journey under the snow.
East end of Lac Kénogami trail
Become a musher for a day: taking the reins of a dog team
If I'm asked what a musher is, I'd say it's a man braving the bitter cold of the far north, guiding his sled across snowy terrain. The term has its roots in the French word "marcheur", which refered to a guy walking next to his sled, it has been anglicized by the Canadian.
I was able to live this experience thanks to "Les Balades Solos", located not far from Saguenay, accessible by car or by the shuttles that they provide.
Guiding a sled requires clear communication with the dogs. It's important to shout loudly to make yourself heard over the noise of the sleds gliding over the snow. An energetic "Ok" tells the dogs that you'll accompany them in their effort by pushing the sled alongside them. And, if you want to slow down the pace or simply brake, a firm "Wow" is required.
Two per sled, we experienced this adventure in turn: one comfortably seated, enjoying the scenery, the other, the pusher, joining in the dogs' efforts, especially on the uphill sections.
As we sped over snow-covered hills and through peaceful forests, the panorama was breathtaking. We were several sledges in convoy, like explorers from another time.
It was an immersive experience, a journey through time and wilderness, guided by the breath and strength of these magnificent dogs. A day I'll never forget.
Extracts from the dog sled ride
Frozen tales and wriggling fish in Ha Ha! bay
Ha Ha! bay, the name alone arouses curiosity, with many theories circulating as to its origin. In winter, the bay is a sight to behold. It is transformed into a frozen tableau, where the thick ice supports an ephemeral village of fishing huts. This icy mantle is so solid that fishermen venture out in their cars, driving right up to their cabins.
With my roommates we headed out to the bay a day before the village officially opened, to maximize our chances of fishing without too much competition. Inside or outside the hut, the holes are always close to each other, so we fished at three different heights to avoid disturbing each other. Whoever fished deepest had to grind for several tens of seconds to pull up a potential catch.
Ice fishing on Ha Ha! bay
After learning how to fish, we learned how to prepare and cook the fish ourselves, for a succulent and well-deserved meal. Fish can also be released back into the water. Some are not allowed to be kept!
What struck me most beyond the fishing was that special moment, in the bitter cold, when we found ourselves sharing stories, dreams and memories. The cold had a way of bringing people together, just as a campfire would on a warm summer's night. For those looking for an experience of authentic connection with nature and friends, I highly recommend this activity!
Alpine skiing nearby
If you're a winter sports enthusiast, there's a modest mountain range north of Saguenay where you'll find the Valinouët ski resort, just a 45-minute drive from Chicoutimi. It's an ideal place for a spontaneous escape, to get away from the pressure of studying, or simply to breathe in the fresh mountain air. If you don't have a car, you'll also find tiny ski resorts in La Baie or Jonquière, accessible by bus.
Valinouët is far from the size of the French ski resorts, but nevertheless offers quality runs. From green slopes to obstacle courses and through pine trees, there's something for everyone. Quebec's trail code differs from the French one. From the easiest to the most difficult: green circle, blue square, black diamond and double black diamond. The latter often indicates a trail through pine trees. In French it goes in circles as follow: green, blue, red, black.
I had the opportunity to go skiing with friends over the weekend, but also to try out snowboarding by going back for a day organized by UQAC.
I went skiing at -25°C, and at that temperature, even with good equipment, we cooled off very quickly and had to plan regular breaks in the warmth of the resort. Even so, I wouldn't recommend going skiing below -20°C.
Valinouët ski resort and Desjardins slope
Whether you're looking for extreme temperatures or mountain sports, it's essential to take your ski gear with you, so you can enjoy Quebec winter sports and other outdoor activities.
Niagara Falls and Toronto with strangers
Embarking on a 5-day journey 1000 km away from Saguenay with a friend, a roommate and five new faces is the kind of unforgettable adventure you can't afford to miss.
Two cars, two drivers, eight students in search of new horizons.
Our first stop: Ottawa, where we took a break to visit the Canadian Parliament.
House of Commons, one of Canada's Parliament buildings in Ottawa
Our second stop: Toronto, Canada's largest metropolis, welcomed us for a busy programme.
Here are my favourite spots:
- The 553-metre-high CN Tower, almost two Eiffel Towers for an awsome sight on the city.
- Church-Wellesley Village, a reflection of LGBTQ dynamism and diversity.
- Queen Street and Graffiti Alley, where every nook and cranny is brimming with history and creativity.
- The Toronto Skyline panorama from Ward's Island, at night. The city lights, twinkling on the horizon, in the cold and isolated from the noise of the city, offered a restful spectacle.
Toronto Skyline and a plane landing
Other places worth a visit can be found in the map section of the website, where I recommend the places I've visited in Canada.
Then came our third stopover: Niagara Fall, on the border with the United States. home to a natural wonder formed by the retreat of glaciers at the end of the last Ice Age. These falls provide electricity for nearly 3.8 million homes!
In winter, the falls are less crowded, allowing free circulation along the barriers. Starting at 7.30pm, the three falls light up for a magnificent spectacle.
Horseshoe fall
Winter's fury didn't keep a low profile during this stay, giving us 30 cm of snow in a single night and a completely white city. Without our shovels, it would have been difficult to get in the cars and drive out. On the way back, we were confronted with night-time snow blasts. These sudden snow flurries considerably reduce visibility, and turned our trip into a 30km/h journey on the freeway with warnings on.
This trip allowed me to meet new people, who have become friends with whom I have fond memories. It taught me that sometimes the best adventures start when you step out of your comfort zone and go on the wildest adventures.
Fall by night
Adventures close to home: winter activities in Saguenay
If there's one thing I've appreciated during my stay in Saguenay, it's this closeness to nature, always ready to offer us memorable moments, even in the dead of winter.
For me, Parc du Moulin has become a main destination. Once covered in snow, it becomes a veritable playground. Whether on foot or snowshoe, I loved the forest trails and the frozen river. Each step gave me the crunch of fresh snow, the sound so characteristic of winter walks.
For those who prefer sliding to walking, cross-country skiing is king here. Trails wind through the trees, offering breathtaking views of ephemeral, frozen landscapes. I advise you to install Ondago so you'll have a map of the slopes in your pocket.
Saguenay also offers indoor and outdoor ice skating; for skate rentals, make arrangements in advance. If there's one place you need to go skating, it's on Lac Kénogami.
A little further away, but not to be missed: Mont Valin. It stands proudly and also offers unique winter experiences. Although its hiking trails are more demanding, the challenge is quickly rewarded with breathtaking panoramas. Go on a clear day for good visibility, equip yourself with snowshoes, head for the Pic de la Tête de Chien and you'll have one of the most beautiful views of your life. After all this exercise, don't hesitate to enjoy a good poutine with your friends!
The time I spent in the parks in and around Saguenay confirmed one thing for me: you don't always have to go far to find adventure and wonder.
Coulée Val-Lombrette, just behind UQAC
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