Crossing Canada, from east to west

8,000 kilometers, 19 days and 4 time zones, with the goal of crossing Canada and living an unforgettable experience accompanied by Mark, my travel partner.

First, I'll share some of the highlights of this trip, followed by a checklist to help you plan a road trip to Canada.

Itineraries of our road trip from Eastern to Western Canada

We first travelled north, from Montreal to Chicoutimi passing by Quebec City. Then we returned to Montreal for our departure to the far west.

Across Ontario

Our journey across Canada, the country with the most lakes in the world, starts in Montreal on one of the longest and most scenic highways on the planet: the Trans-Canada Highway. To make up for lost time, we decided to drive non-stop through the Val d'Or to Marathon, where we stopped at Pukaskwa National Park before lunching in a typical American roadside restaurant.

Val d'Or and Pukaskwa National Park

In this park we had a warm encounter with an Ontario resident who had come to paint the landscapes of these grandiose and majestic environments, where hills, beach, transparent water and clouds lapping the surface of the water meet.

A young black bear, curious, crossed on the road

Here are a few highlights from this first part:

› A bear came to say hello on the road, and other animals crossed our route,

› Eating by quiet lakes,

› Straight roads through fir forests as far as the eye can see.

› The park on the shores of Lake Superior, whose surface represents 10% of the world's drinking water.

Excerpts from vlogs produced mainly by Mark (@markdcaribe)

Regina, Capital of Saskatchewan

After a break in Winnipeg, the capital of Manitoba, we drove to Regina. Our plan was to enjoy a Regina pizza, then camp out.

At the pizzeria, we got to know the waitress, Aesha. Originally from India, she came to Vancouver for her medical studies before continuing them in Regina, in the middle of Canada's desert plains, where temperatures easily reach -40°C in winter and 40°C in summer.

She then advised us against camping as, unfortunately, the wind that day was bringing back smoke from the forest fires and this would have been dangerous for our health. She very kindly invited us to sleep at her place and, as a bonus, we were offered a home-made Chai Tea.

A great encounter!

From right to left: Aesha, Mark and I

Dinosaur territory

Shortly after leaving Calgary (Alberta's capital), passing Cypress Hills Interprovincial Park, and crossing a few oil wells, we stopped at Dinosaur Provincial Park.

Somwhere between the Badlands Trail and the Fossil Hunters Trail

This new territory, the badlands, was trodden by dinosaurs millions of years ago. As we climbed upwards, we were confronted by a desert landscape of spectacular geological formations. Eroded hills and ridges, with strata of sediment ranging in color from red to beige, bear witness to a long geological history.

With the smoke of forest fires and vehicles banned from the park, we felt like we were taking a trip back in time. Dinosaur fossils have been discovered here since the 19th century, and numerous paleontological excavations continue to be carried out. It's not uncommon for tourists to find fossils that are obviously forbidden to preserve.

Dinosaur Provincial Park Southern Nature Reserve

The badlands are interspersed with deep valleys, sculpted by water and wind erosion, creating a complex network of canyons and ravines. The Red Deer River also cuts through this arid landscape, allowing areas of greenery along its banks. Among the sage and cacti, deer, coyotes and bald eagles thrive.

I was surprised by a doe that emerged from a grove along the river before continuing on its way.

Archaeological dig site preserved on display

Bear country

No sooner had we left the desert plains than we entered bear country, in Alberta's Banff National Park. It's one of the most majestic places in the country.

Bow Valley, Banff National Park

Snow-capped mountain peaks, even in summer, dominate the horizon. The feet of the mountains are engulfed by dense coniferous forests, which stretch as far as the eye can see, creating a green carpet that contrasts with the whiteness of the peaks. Water is omnipresent, whether in crystalline, deep-blue rivers winding through the valley, tumultuous rapids or cascading waterfalls.

Hidden between the mountains are numerous lakes of exceptional beauty. Their intense turquoise color is caused by the sliding of the surrounding glaciers, eroding the rock and leaving very fine rock particles (called rock flour) suspended in the water.

On the way from Lake Louise to Lake Agnes

In addition to bears, you can spot deer, elk, bighorn sheep (which we met in a herd along the way), mountain goats and even wolves.

In the park, the two activities that stoud out the most for me were :

› The via ferrata ascent of Mont Norquay, four hours, 2,133 meters, an excellent guide and imposing rock walls, offering, in addition to the thrills, a stunning panoramic view of the Bow valley and surrounding mountains.

› The chain of Lake Louise, Lake Mirror and Lake Agnes. The first is one of Canada's most photographed lakes. It is surrounded by majestic mountains and the Victoria Glacier, which are reflected on its surface. Lake Agnes is 3.5 kilometers further away and 500 metres higher. Two different but equally breathtaking natural landscapes!

From left to right: Lake Louise and Lake Agnes

To conclude this section, here's a tip for camping in bear country. You need three pitches, all at least fifty meters apart, one for sleeping, one for storing food (hermetically sealed) and one for eating. This will give you peace of mind, without the risk of being disturbed by a bear. However, keep bear spray with you in case a grizzly gets a little too curious.

Entrance sign to the province of Alberta on the Trans-Canada Highway

Some things to think about when planning a road trip

The Montreal-Vancouver road trip is well known in Quebec. "Every Quebecer must do this road trip once in their life". Here are the steps involved in organizing your trip:

First approach

To get an overview and tips for this project, talk to other travelers who have already done it. If you'd like some recommendations, I can pass on the contact details of people who'd be happy to share their experience with you (see contact).

Then you can find out about activities or sites to visit. There's a wide choice of places to look: Instagram, Google, blogs, travel guides, local guides...

Which transport?

This is the most important question. Will you be making a one-way trip (e.g. back to France) or a round trip? The round-trip option has its advantages in terms of organization and budget, but it also has its disadvantages: a non-stop return trip represents 4 to 5 days of driving.

Here are a few pointers on how to get there and back:

› RV (Recreational Vehicle). You can look into private sales of RVs. For a one-way trip, if you can't find one in your departure city, look in other cities, even if it means alternating with a rental car for a few hundred kilometers. Here's an example of a site where you can find one: Indie Campers (one-way).

› Car. You have several options:

1. If you already own a car, if you're not making a round-trip and intend to resell it in Vancouver, you'll have to go through the administrative steps and the garage in British Columbia, so that your car meets the province's standards. The second option would be to leave or buy an inexpensive car that can still be driven 5000 km; on arrival you'll leave it at the scrapyard.

2. You can borrow or lease a car from someone close to you. In this case, someone can take the road trip in the opposite direction. Alternatively, there are car-shipping services by train, such as MVS.

3. There are car rentals for a one-way trip from Montreal to Vancouver. Only Hertz/Dollar/Thrifty offer this option.

› Carpooling. You can hitchhike or use ride-sharing apps like Kangaride.

› Train. In Canada, there's VIA Rail, with trains that cross Canada in 4 to 5 days. They sometimes pass through areas completely inaccessible by car, with breathtaking scenery. Here's an overview.

› Plane. It's up to you whether you prefer to fly from one destination to another. I find this option the least attractive (environmental impact, high price...). It will also deprive you of having traveled one of the world's great highways: the Trans-Canada Highway.

› Bus. The bus can be a good alternative to the plane in terms of the three points mentioned above. However, you'll need to be well organized, given the limited number of buses on offer.

With whom?

If you decide to travel on the road and you don't yet know who will be the person with whom you will share the same space for several days and to whom you will entrust your life during the driving sessions, I offer you several options:

1. UQAC Facebook groups (Les français de l'UQAC, Communauté étudiante de l’UQAC (MAGE-UQAC) , Les Internationaux de l'UQAC)

2. French British Columbia travel group, Les BC's | Facebook

3. The group Co-voiturage Ouest Canadien voyageur en paix ... | Facebook

For how long?

How much time do you want to allocate to the road trip? The minimum one-way trip by car is 4 to 5 days non-stop, or a dozen or so with overnight stops. After that, you define the duration of each visit. I advise you to add an extra day or two for any problems that may arise on the road. If not, you can use these extra days to visit the United States or northern British Columbia.

What's the budget?

It's not the most exciting stage, nor the easiest, but it's essential to avoid unpleasant surprises. There are a number of points to bear in mind:

› Camping: a tent that doesn't take up much space, as well as a comforter and a comfortable mattress. Summer temperatures can vary from 5°C to 40°C.

› Equipment (hygiene, cooking, gears, etc.): here are a few examples:

↪ A stove or gas cylinder with a gas stove.

↪ A cool box, tupperware and washable crockery.

↪ A 10L can of water.

↪ A showerhead, or a small hose with a hole in the bottle (if Walmarts' toilets or rivers don't suit you). Biodegradable soap or baby wipes.

↪ Bear spray, mosquito repellent, tick tweezers, sunscreen.

› Fuel (if you're on the road). The price of gas varies from province to province, being lower in the desert plains close to the oil factories. And higher in the big cities. Prices also change over time, and I recommend two websites to help you forecast these costs: Monthly average retail prices for gasoline and fuel oil, by geography (statcan.gc.ca) & Canada Gasoline Prices - Forecast (tradingeconomics.com).

Where to sleep?

Whether in a tent or RV, there are several options:

› Sleep outside the city for free if the province allows it;

› Find a parking lot that allows overnight RVs;

› Reserve a campsite (tent or RV pitch);

› Sleep in a national park, in which case you need to reserve a spot at least 2 or 3 days in advance (it's very rare for a national park to let you reserve a spot for the same evening).

› If you're craving comfort, there are always hotels and Airbnb, but these are likely to burn a hole in your budget.

I recommend three smartphone apps for finding a place to sleep:

1. iOverlander: a community app where users can indicate different points of interest (also works on a browser).

2. A little better but not free: Wikicamps.

3. Park4Night, which works mainly for Quebec.

If this road trip is unafordable for you, don't worry: smaller, looping road trips (e.g. Quebec / Ontario / northwestern U.S.) are a good alternative and still allow you to see some fabulous scenery.